Turtles are cold-blooded reptiles. They have a shell making them unique from other reptiles. 
Their upper shell is called the carapace, and a lower shell that protects the belly called the plastron. The carapace and plastron shape and color varies from species to species. One might think it would at least constantly be a tough shell, which additionally is untrue. There are softshell turtle species, along with a lot of others. Here we're only going to discuss the care of 2 of the most fashionable types of turtles kept as household pets - the Red Eared Slider Turtle and the Box Turtle.
The red-eared slider is native to the United States. It is commonly found in the Southern regions. The species name for it is Trachemys s. elegans.
When the red-eared slider is young it is carnivorous, but as it ages they become more vegetarian. They are a medium size and have a dark green oval shell. Their legs are green with think yellow stripes. The head is also green, but it has a red stripe behind the eye. These turtles are found in most irreparable slow-moving bodies of water. They favor areas with mud bottoms.
Food To Feed Red Eared Sliders
When it comes to feeding them you can give them earthworms, reside feeder fish (this includes goldfish, guppies, minnows), waxworms, crickets, aquatic snails, daphnia, earthworms, silkworms, mealworms, and blood worms. These should just be given to small turtles. Adult red eared slider should eat greater creature items.
When feeding turtles vegetation stick with collard, kale, bok choy, mustard, dandelions greens, and dark green leaf lettuce. Never feed them iceberg lettuce because it does not have much nutrition.
If your turtle lives in a pond or aquarium you can always add aquatic plants to feed them. They like to snack on submerged plants take enjoyment in frog-bit, water hyacinth, water lettuce, azolla, anacharis, and duckweed. When choosing what size aquarium you require for your turtle, the universal rule is 6 gallons minimum per inch of turtle.
Sliders require clean water, so constant water changes are essential. One piece of gear that can assist keep the water clean between changes is a filter. Red eared sliders furthermore call for warm water. Temperatures between 75 - 85 degrees Fahrenheit will work rather well. A submersible heater will do the job of sustaining the perfect water temperature.
Warmth stimulates a slider's immune system, and a warm, dry field whereas it can "bask" is required. The basking field should be a flat, elevated area in the aquarium that is commonly accessible by your turtle through the use of a ramp. The heat in this area can be provided by a 50 - 150 watt incandescent bulb.
If your pet does not have access to natural, unblocked sunlight, then a UV light is additionally needed. Particular reptile lights at your pet store work wonderful for this, and will afford for your slider's needs in this area.
There are 2 species, with 6 subspecies, of North American Box Turtle. They are the : Florida Box Turtle, Eastern Box Turtle, Gulf Coast Box Turtle, Three-toed Box Turtle, Desert Box Turtle, and Ornate Box Turtle.
Box turtles tend to fall somewhere between the truly aquatic turtles and the terrestrial tortoises with their call for for access to bodies of water in which to soak and their need for wooded and grassland areas with moist humid soil. Box turtle forage for food on land and spend the day they sleep dug into the earth in burrows, under logs, or wedged under rocks.
HOUSING:
Box turtles call for a first-rate size enclosure in order to provide for the suitable range of heating and humidity. The smallest size indoor enclosure for one box turtle to be kept in is 3 x 3 x 2 feet. For two turtles, the minimum size should be at least 4 x 4 x 2 feet. Aquariums are not pro
per housing for an adult box turtle. Babies may be kept in aquariums, but as they grow larger enclosures are needed. Create a land area using 2 to 3 inches of good quality plain sterile potting gsoil slightly moistened. Do not employ backyard dirt of soil from a garden. Mix the soil with cypress mulch. Do not used coarse substrates such are gravel or sand, as these tend to scratch the shell and open the way for bacterial infections.
Box turtles call for a hide box in which to acquire away from it all and feel secure. A good size box in one corner of the enclosure, filled with alfalfa hay in which to burrow. is essential. The hide box can be anything from a cardboard box to a plastic container with a door cut into it. A water field must be provided tht is deep enough that the water comes to only about the nose of the turtle. It doesn't call for to be swimming, just soaking. If using a kitty litter pan, it is best to sink this into the substrate and provide a ramp to obtain in and get out for the turtle. The water area must be kept clean at all times. Box turtles not only use the water to soak in but additionally relieve themselves in.
LIGHTING:
Full spectrum lighting is required for indoor enclosures. Full spectrum light mimics the healthy
effects of natural sunlight, enabling the turtle to metabolize vitamin D3. The full spectrum lighting is an indispensable aspect of the calcium metabolization process. Lacking the particular wavelengths and appropriate diet, calcium deficiencies will result which may eventually verify fatal. Box Turtles require 12 to 14 hours of light each time. NOTE: UV waves cannot pass through glass, and 40% of the available waves are lost when the light passes through an aluminum screen, endeavor to have the light shining directly on them.
HUMIDITY/TEMPERATURE:
Day Day temps: 85 to 88 degrees
Night Time temps: 70 to 75 degrees.
Most box turtles call for a qualified humidity of 60 to 80% in at least one area of their enclosure. Turtle that are not provided with the correct humidity often suffer from infected and swollen eyes and ear infections. Providing humidity is plain, in one corner of the enclosure provide some peat moss and wet it down with water unti
l it is fairly moist. A hiding area , such as a cardboard box or large plastic container with ventilation holes should be placed greater than the wet peat moss. Be certain to check the moss constantly to insure it is moist and has not dried out.
DIET:
It is leading to afford food after the turtle has had a few hours to warm up in the morning. Young turtles require feeding on a daily establishment, whereas adult can be fed every other day. Make sure you differ their diet with both plant and animal matter. Vitamin supplements should be added twice a week.
Plants: A variety of vegetables, greens and fruits are a must. Such as a "salad" of carrots, squash green beans, strawberries, cranberries, blackberries, cherries, and plums. Some cantalou
pe (with the rind), mustard greens, dandelions, and collard greens can also be mixed in. For treats you can add flowers enjoy hibiscus, rose petals, and geraniums.
Meat: High quality low fat canned dog food, finely chopped cooked chicken or raw beef center. Reside food can furthermore be offered, enjoy meal worms and crickets.
Young turtles need more creature matter in their diet due to their require of protein. As they grow into adults this should be reduced greater than day to no more than 10% of their total diet.
BRUMATION/HIBERNATION:
It is a first-rate idea to allow your box turtle to hibernate, particularly if you keep it in an outdoor enclosure during the summer months.This is to allow the box turtles internal clock to remian normal. If you choose not to hibernate the turtle, you must keep it warm and provide plenty of UV lighting along with their normal dietary needs.
To prepare a box turtle for hibernation, do not feed the animal for two weeks, but keep the heat on to permit the creature to completely digest any food remaining in its stomach and intestinal tract. Soak the box turtle in a shallow container of lukewarm water several times during this period for approximately 10 minutes, this will aid to hydrate the creature and to remove 
any food left in their system. Box turtle hibernated with food still present in their intestinal tract can die from mammoth infections as the food rots inside them.
Hibernating box turtles indoor requires a hibernation box. A cardboard box half filled with moist sterile potting soil or peat moss with holes punched in the sides for aeration is an suitable hibernation box. After all the food has been cleared from the turtle's system, introduce the turtle to the hibernation box. If the box turtle buries down into the substrate and remains still, it is ready for hibernation. If the creature is moving restlessly around after 20 minutes in the box, return if to its enclosure, wait a few days and endeavor again. If the box turtle is ready, move it to an unheated room, such as a garage, while the temperature will remain between 40 to 55 degrees.
Check the box turtle weekly to guarantee is has not surfaced prematurely. Box turtles typically come out of hibernation after experiencing temerature above 65 degrees for a few days. After the turtle comes out of hibernation, return it to its conventional enclosure, offer water, warm it up for a couple of days, and then afford some food. Pay close attention to the turtle during the day after hibernation to detect for any health problems that may occur.